Wednesday, June 27, 2012

GREECE! Part 1...Athens

We recently returned from our “trip of the year” to Greece!  It was about a 10-day vacation, with visits to Athens, Mykonos, Paros, and Santorini (where G and I celebrated our 3rd Anniversary!).  It was truly a spectacular trip; full of great food, lots of laughter, SUNSHINE, and wonderful memories.  We spent the first part of our trip (Athens & Mykonos) with one other couple, Kelly & Mike, and then a third couple, Kaila & Joe, joined us for the second half (Paros & Santorini).  We all had an absolute blast, but are now experiencing major Greece withdrawals, especially as we sort through the (literally) thousands of pictures we all took!  I thought I would break up the posts, so without further ado, I’ll jump right into Athens!

After a slight delay, we finally touched down in Athens, for the first leg of our much-anticipated Greek Getaway.  Now, Grant disagrees with me, but after talking to a few people (and considering the crisis happening in Greece right now) about our trip, my perception of Athens was pretty negative, I’ll admit.  I heard everything from, “it’s so dirty” to “it’s so dangerous”, etc., that I wasn’t too excited, and glad we were only spending one full day there.

Well, let’s just say I was pleasantly surprised…I think we all were!  All four of us truly enjoyed Athens, and were so thankful we dedicated at least one day of our itinerary to exploring the city.  I should have known better than to think negatively of the city, especially considering the fact that the ancient world's most magnificent site, the Acropolis, is here. 

Anyways, upon arriving to our hotel around midnight (with empty, growling stomachs), we immediately set-off  for Souvlaki row to munch on our first (of many) gyros!  Oh my gosh, they were so delicious!  After wandering around a bit (and pinching ourselves as we stared up at the unbelievable view of the Acropolis at night), we called it a night by sipping on some of Athens’ finest “dry” white wine on our balcony, while taking in the Acropolis views! 

As you all know, we’re big fans of Rick Steves, so we thought, what better way to see the city than with his Athens City Walk.  We started off in modern Athens, which is centered on Syntagma Square and the Ermou shopping street.  Overlooking Syntagma Square is Parliament, where we caught the changing of the guards in front of the tomb of the unknown soldier, and grand hotels that used to be mansions for the wealthy back in the early 19th century.  Considering the crisis, we expected to see a lot of action in this area…maybe a few protesters, etc., but to our surprise, there was absolutely no commotion around Parliament, or anywhere else in the city/country, for that matter.  If we hadn’t been following the news, we would have never known there was a crisis unraveling.  Once through Syntagma Square, we walked down the pedestrian mall called Ermou, lined with hundreds of modern-day stores.

Parliament


Ermou

The middle part of our walk focused on Athens’ Greek Orthodox faith, with visits to three different churches.  At one time, Athens was a part of the Byzantine Empire, and in the 11th & 12th centuries, Athens boomed, and several Eastern Orthodox churches were constructed around the city.  You can easily spot the Byzantine churches due to their square shape, topped with a central dome.  Two were very quaint…reminding me of what we would consider a chapel in the states.  During our walk, we witnessed many older Grecians hopping off their motor bike (leaving it running) and heading inside one of the churches for a few minutes to say a quick prayer, and then be on their way.  We also stopped by the Cathedral, which has been decorated by scaffolding since the earthquake of 1989!  We ended this portion of the walk on Agia Filotheis Street, where all the religious stores are found…meaning, we saw tons of priests walking around in their black robes, with their long beards, and those fez-like hats! 







Before continuing onto the third leg of our walk, we stopped for our first Mythos of the trip.  We took our beer to go, as we continued meandering through the streets of Athens :)  


The last part of the walk consisted of us wandering through the old core of Athens…the Plaka & mellow Greek-village-on-a-hillside of Anafiotika.  During this portion, we saw the Arch of Hadrian and Temple of Olympian Zeus, and enjoyed getting lost on the tiny streets of Anafiotika, which was by far, our favorite part of the walk.  Slowly becoming a place for wealthy locals to keep an “island cottage” in the city, the houses were all spectacular with many of them having amazing rooftop gardens!  We ended our walk in Souvlaki row to enjoy yet another delicious gyro.

Arch of Hadrian

Temple of Olympian Zeus




Next up was the Acropolis tour!!!  You start the tour off overlooking the Odeon amphitheater, which is actually still used today, can you believe it?  We would have loved to attend a performance here, but their season didn’t start until mid-June, unfortunately.  So, from there, we continued onto the Propylaea, which is the entrance gate to the Acropolis.  We spent several minutes just staring up in awe at this site, trying to imagine what it was like to make the long walk up to the Acropolis over 2,500 years ago!  It’s so hard to wrap your head around it.  From here though, you get a great view of the Temple of Athena Nike and the Monument of Agrippa.  This is also where I slipped on the marble pathway and fell on my a**…damn those cute gladiator sandals from Target!  After walking through the gate, you reach the Parthenon – definitely the most magnificent site of the Acropolis.  Even though most of it is in ruins, it’s still absolutely breathtaking…so I can only imagine what it looked like thousands of years ago!  We wandered around for a while, soaking in the panoramic views of the city of Athens below us, before heading back down to reality…the history in this city is just so overwhelming!


Odeon Amphitheater


The Propylaea

Parthenon!




For dinner, we found ourselves at the family-owned & family-run Sholarhio Ouzeri Kouklis restaurant.  They serve only small plates called mezedes (Greek tapas), and we all loved it!  You basically order a package, based on the number of people in your party…so, for four people, they recommend ten plates.  They literally bring over all of their mezedes on a huge platter, and you pick the ten that you would like, straight from the platter – it was so much fun!   We were able to try such a variety, which was great…including Moussaka (what we like to call Greek lasagna), fried sardines (G loved these!), delicious meatballs, and so much more!  We ended the night up on the hotel’s rooftop terrace, taking in as much of the view as we could (as you can tell, that view never got old!).






The next morning, we caught our first of three ferries of the trip.  It was about a 5.5 hour ferry ride to our next island, Mykonos, and our “economy” seats were pretty interesting…basically, it’s a free for all, so if you’re lucky, you can find a table up on the covered deck.  We were expecting the comfy chairs inside, where we could doze off, but instead found ourselves with the riff raff…which was much more entertaining!  We felt like we were in an episode of Jersey Shore…Mykonos is known as the party/nightlife island, so I think we found ourselves amongst many locals just taking a weekend trip over there.  We survived the ride though, which was well worth it, and found ourselves in paradise for the next few days! 



Pretty good views of islands from the ferry!


*Many photos courtesy of Mike & Kelly Faillo

Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Neimans comes to London!

May was an amazing month!  Two dear friends of mine who I met through working at Neiman's were able to hop across the pond and pay Grant and I a little visit.  It really meant a lot to the both of us to have them here, and it was so much fun to host our first set of friends!

First up, Kevin & Christina arrived for a 5 day visit!  A little background on Christina and me...every now and then, we would do a little shopping together over our lunch break...9 times out of 10, we would walk away with the same exact purchase (hey, we both have great taste!), so we would text each other in the mornings before work if we were wearing something we knew the other had.  True story.  So, it was only fitting that when I arrived at Heathrow to pick them up, Christina and I were in the EXACT same outfit!  It was too funny!  And yes, we proudly rocked the matching outfit all throughout the day :)


Despite the rainy weather, we had a pretty productive day 1!  Plus, I knew K&C were planning on napping, but secretly, I was not going to let that happen...you have to fight that jet lag people!  So, we dropped off their bags, and were off...  
We had to hit up The Troubadour, of course, for brunch/lunch first.  Then, we did one of our favorites...took the tube to St. James's Park (it had just finished raining, so we had the park to ourselves!), and walked through the park up to Trafalgar Square, where we found ourselves in the middle of a torrential downpour; so just like the rest of the tourists, we ran into The National Gallery to take cover for a while.



The rain was NOT letting up, so we made a mad dash over to The Chando's Opera Room to enjoy a pint and dry off a bit...pubs are the perfect place to be when it's raining here, if you ask me!



Then, we continued our stroll over to Covent Garden, where I had my first macaroon!  Can you believe I have never had one before?  Christina, don't you feel special being a part of that wonderful moment in my life?!  It was delicious, and most certainly will not be my last!


At last, G was able to meet up with us, so the four of us wandered through Leicester Square, Piccadilly Circus, back down The Mall past Buckingham, and caught the tube at Green Park to head on home.  Whew, what a day!  Everyone was exhausted, so we made the 30 second walk down to Deena B's for a nice home-cooked meal.
Side note...during dinner, Deena and Henry were delivering food to a residence right behind our flat...we, of course, were curious - turns out, one of the Director's at the Royal Opera House lives right behind us!  Pretty cool, huh?  Hopefully one of these days we'll be invited to one of his fancy parties where Deena B's is catering...wishful thinking :)


We started off Friday by strolling through Borough Market for lunch.  Christina took some great pics of all the amazing food, that we both feel are definitely magazine worthy :)






Our picnic from Borough Market


On our way to meet up with Grant, we decided to stop by the Tower of London & Tower Bridge to snap a few pics, then made our way over to Canary Wharf for a quick tour.


Christina chopping my head off :(

After scooping up Grant in Canary Wharf, we made our way over to Island Gardens, where you get a view of Greenwich from across the river, took the footpath underneath the Thames, and found ourselves in beautiful Greenwich for the afternoon!  We shopped (and drank) our way through the Greenwich Market & then made the trek up to the Royal Observatory.  Greenwich is where the Equestrian events will be taking place for the Olympics, so as you can see, the view was a little obstructed...I can't believe the Olympics are only a few weeks away now!  G & I are definitely enjoying the calm before the storm...


 Equestrian set-up in progress

Tour guide Kristin, at your service





And then, we ended the day on Brick Lane, "the curry capital of Europe".  Once on Brick Lane, it is seriously curry house after curry house - all offering you the best "deal" for dinner.  It was pretty intense - every restaurant has a pitchman, stopping you, and asking you to "just hear me out...this is what I can do for you...bottle of wine for the ladies, 2 pints each for the gents...".  It was hysterical & pretty much impossible to pick a place!  It was quite the experience, but I'm happy to report that we found a place where we all enjoyed the same exact dish - chicken tikka masala (yea, we're really adventurous with our Indian food, huh?).

For our one day trip while they were here, we took the train out to Cambridge.  Kevin actually studied here one summer, so he was excited to get back & show us all around the town.  It is GORGEOUS!!!!  It was seriously so much fun walking around all the colleges.  We also stopped into the Fitzwilliam Museum (many people describe this as a mini-British Museum/National Gallery rolled into one) for a few minutes...my favorite items on exhibit were the three 17th-century Chinese vases - in 2006, a visitor tripped and accidentally knocked them over!  Can you imagine?!  Oh my gosh, that is one of my worst fears!  They were restored though, and honestly, if you didn't know the background, you never would have known they were once in thousands of pieces.


A couple of students, perhaps?

Kevin's College!







boys being boys

After wandering around the town, we enjoyed lunch at The Eagle Pub - the oldest pub in town, and then made our way down to the Cam.  This was by far the most entertaining (at least for Christina and me) part of the day.  Here, you can rent one of the traditional flat-bottom punts at the river and pole yourself up and down (or more like side to side) the Cam.  Both Grant and Kevin gave it a shot...and let's just say neither one of them fell in, so I guess it was a success!  haha  Half of the time you're bracing yourself as you run into another boat, or changing directions to avoid all the drunk people out there...it was pretty amusing.  I'm sure I would have ended up in the Cam if I had attempted...so, Christina and I just enjoyed the ride while sipping on our Pimm's, making the boys do all the hard work :)

An ad for Pimm's?




Once back in London, we had a relaxing dinner at La Pappardella (our little Italian joint down the street), and went out for a bit to the Duke of Clarence.  And oh yes, let's not forget the dance party we had in our flat to end the night...Christina and Grant were having DJ wars, it was pretty epic (I'm sure our neighbors love us!). 


Photo bomb outside of La Pappardella!

On our way to the Duke of Clarence...I thought we were doing funny faces??!!

Classic bathroom pic at the Duke of Clarence...we thought the wallpaper was pretty :)


Someone must have put me up to this...

On Sunday, we had to introduce K&C to a traditional Sunday roast!  On the way, we stopped in Notting Hill to stroll through Portobello Market, and meet up with their (now ours too :) ) British friends, Sasha & Tom!



The famous bookshop from the movie, Notting Hill!

One of Sasha & Tom's friends owns a pub in Camden Town, called The Colonel Fawcett, so we decided to head there for our roast.  It was sooooooo good - we'll definitely be back!




Afterwards, the six of us walked up to Primrose Hill to take in the amazing views, and then we headed back into Central London to enjoy a mid-afternoon wine and cheese break at good old Gordon's Wine Bar (always the perfect place for Sunday Funday).



On their last day (tear), Christina and I decided to have a girls day.  After a quick trip to the market to pick up ingredients for dinner, we went straight to Oxford Circus!  I think we ended up spending like two hours in one store, it was ridiculous!  They are all HUGE and so crowded!  This was my first true shopping outing here in London, so I was super excited (I have been very good since we've moved here!).  Unfortunately, the styles over here are bizarre, so we only came away with a few things (the same exact outfit, of course), but we did walk away with a gem of a photo...you'll know which one I'm talking about :)

Outside our front door :)

Lunch at Cafe Pascucci

 Both of these outfits were on display in the store...I mean, seriously??!!!  No wonder we found ourselves in the same store for two hours!  haha  

So, back at the flat, we made a delicious sea bass dinner, then ventured out one last time to get a view of Big Ben & Westminster Abbey at night...the perfect way to end their visit.  Although it was incredibly hard having to say goodbye, again, it was such a blast!  You guys are coming back next year, right?!  :)




The classic telephone booth pic :)

And then they were off to Italy! 

*Majority of the photos courtesy of Christina Crews 

Next up...another former Neiman's friend, Joanna, arrived a few weeks later!  She stayed with us in London for a couple of days, before meeting up with her sisters to do a little backpacking through Europe.  With Grant at work, her husband back in Dallas (we missed you Matt!), Joanna and I were able to have a couple of true girls' days in London!  It was so much fun...I seriously felt like we were two locals, just going about our day.  Plus, Joanna brought the amazing Texas weather with her...it was gorgeous, and HOT (high 70's, low 80's...it's funny how quickly I became a true Londoner...now, low 80's to me is way too hot!), so we spent as much time outdoors as we could (along with the rest of London) :)

We had a very fun and eventful first day!  We started out at, you guessed it, The Troubadour for a traditional English breakfast on their patio...it was my first time sitting out on their patio; it's been closed since we've been living here, due to the "lovely" weather we always have.  After brunch, we headed over to St. James's Park/Buckingham Palace, which was filled with sunbathers and construction workers setting up stands for the Queen's Jubilee. We were lucky enough to happen upon one of the events leading up to the Jubilee...a military ball of some sort at the Palace!  We spotted some great fascinators on their way into the Palace :)  We meandered from there over to Trafalgar Square, and then onto Covent Garden.




A little shopping (Top Shop of course!) and more walking later, we ended up stopping for afternoon tea at Bea's of Bloomsbury...LOVE this place; you can basically pick and choose the part of a "proper" afternoon tea that you wish to take part in (for about a third of the price!).  So, they have "Cream Tea", which is your choice of tea with biscuits & their clotted cream and jelly, or "Sweet Tea", where you get your tea with a sampling of all their desserts!  Well, we walk in, and immediately start sweating.  Similar to the rest of Europe, there are not many places that have air conditioning here, so you can imagine how hot it was inside...no air conditioning on a "hot", sunny London day, and ovens on full blast whipping out all of the delicious biscuits and desserts...so, we decided to skip out on tea (we'll do that when you visit next year, right?  :) ), and opted for cool Rosé and Chardonnay instead, paired with some hummus, at the adorable Bluebird Cafe on Kings Road.  And last, but not least, we ended the day by meeting up with Grant in Piccadilly Circus to see Les Miserables!!!!  I was SO excited to finally see it...it was truly a spectacular show; and Joanna and I found ourselves wiping tears from our eyes at the end (very emotional, but oh so good!).  Apparently it won the audience choice award this year...for good reason.


Day 2 started off with a boat tour down the Thames!  We hopped off the tube at Westminster, took a quick walk over to Big Ben/Parliament & Westminster Abbey, before boarding the boat for our 30 min ride down the river.  It was great to see most of the city by boat, and hear about the history of many of the buildings lining the embankment.  Such a great idea by Joanna :)  It dropped us off at the Tower of London, where we caught the tube back to High Street Kensington to do a little more shopping & pick up a picnic from Whole Foods to enjoy in Hyde Park.  After lunch, we strolled around the park, over to the Princess Diana Memorial.  Afterwards, we met Grant at The Duke of Clarence for dinner and drinks, and ended the evening (and her visit...tear) with a trip to Big Ben/Parliament at night. 






Such a fun visit - I'm so glad you were able to stop in London before continuing on your adventure, Joanna!  Looking forward to seeing you and Matt in the Big D in July!

*Photos courtesy of Joanna Lewis